by Devon Walsh
Ramen Yebisu 126 North 6th Street, Brooklyn NY 11211
Ippudo may take all the credit, but this Williamsburg ramen shop gives the famed standby a run for its money, especially in the miso ramen department. Fittingly, as both miso ramen and chef Akira Hiratsuka's hail from Hokkaido, Japan. Ramen there, and at Yebisu, reflects the island’s coastal proximity with ample seafood elements and shellfish based broths. However, if miso isn’t your thing, shoyu, shio, chicken, and a seafood variety called “the Yebisu” are also on offer. Yebisu’s noodles are equally unique thanks to the 48-hour fermentation process they undergo. This technique results in a chewy quality—think egg noodles—that once experienced, leaves all other ramen noodles wanting for texture.
Like so many members of Brooklyn’s food community, Hiratsuka, formerly of midtown’s Yakitoro Totto, first served up his fare at Smorgasburg and eventually opened his brick and mortar a few years later, nearby on North 6th. The minimal space isn’t much to look at, it’s just a few booths and some counter seats, behind which an assembly line of cooks quietly preparing the food will most likely serve as your entertainment. This is the place to slurp up a quick, but satisfying meal solo and/or a good book. Why distract from the ramen with anything else when there’s so much to taste?
Reservations: no, walk in.